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Im also having doubts about the level 5 skill level, and maybe this model is going to be to hard to build.
[ 05-25-2006: Message edited by: 6263866 ]
I remember there were earlier threads of the QM2 Revell model and discussions on it.
Try these links to former chat pages:
http://www.travelserver.net/travelpage/ubb-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002795
http://www.travelserver.net/travelpage/ubb-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=003114
That said Hollywood’s model departments can do a better job scratch building a model than utilizing a commercial kit. However commercial kits are perfect for film effects testing.
GET IT!...it's a beauty!
Models in my little collection are...
350th scale Titanic...this one is a virtual rebuild,using Robert Hahns (www.titanic_plan.de)splendid 350th scale plans.
900th scale Grand Princessthis one was bought through Scherbakshipmodelsit's a travel agents style model,resin material,the finish was just atrocious,so the model was disassembled,stripped refinished,reassembeld & super detailed.
RCI Sovereign of the Seas...bought from a local modelship chandler in 1991,& itappears to one of Maritime Replicas earlier editionscost...$3,500.00...say no more!,a beautiful model tobe sure,but some of it's finifhing is a bit messy,so she may go doen the refurbishment route.
other models in either kit form or strip down modewaiting finishing or refinishing areRevell QM2....Scherbakshipmodels Pacific Princess(scale unknown)..Airfix QE2...Airfix QM2...Airfix Canberra...Mauretania..Revell Queen Mary & Lee Oriana,500th scale.
a lot to do!
Teva
Compelling argument, I might buy a Revell QM2 some of these days. I can still remember the “fun” I had with my scratch build QM2 and all those balconies!
Onno
Elad
Anyway youngman,get the Revell QM2,the size & relative ease in it's assembly,not to mention its accuracy make it a great choice,& the scope for super detailing this model knows absolutley no bounds...
Does anyone have any advice for a complete novice?
Regards, Colin.
Read the instruction booklet carefully cover to cover FIRST to get an idea of what they'll have to do and take it slow. Aim to complete only 1 step over several days. Prepaint as much of the parts while they are still on the plastic trees.
Read the excellent tips provided in other threads below and if they have any questions feel free to email me personally or resurface the thread with the question. You and your friend will get lots of support here.
This is no ordinary toy model kit. This is a project. Take it as such, and the end result can be quite spectacular.
I'm surprised that the windows on Two and Three Decks are solid. Should I even attempt to open these or is that just asking for trouble?
The instructions seem to imply that the small detail should be drawn/coloured with some sort of pen. Are these readilly available in the appropriate colours?
Speaking of colours, are the suggested colours acceptable - even if not absolutely accurate. I don't have the paints but some of the descriptions seem a little off.
What about teak decking? Am I supposed to draw all the caulking lines straight and accurate? or is there another solution.
And all this before I even start!
See Here
1. The windows on Decks 2 & 3 on my model were left as is on the kit. I did paint the inside rim of every hull balcony white (that falls in the dark hull paint). This added a lot of realism but took several hours...
2. One small detail I did was to use the 'alternate' white strip decal meant for the hull boot topping area and cutting it to measure for the framing of the Kings Court and Canyon Ranch Spa windows. This turned out real well. I painted the white hullstrip/boot topping instead of using the decals. Improvise on other small details but I do not recommend using a paint pen.
3. I used a library of pictures I took when I was onboard her to match colors of decks, funnel, etc. I had a very large hobby shop in town and they had either a perfect match, or I blended it myself. If your local hobby store doesnt carry it, see about mail ordering the paints.
4. I left out the caulking lines on the teak decking because no matter what, it was very very hard to get the black caulk lines in a 'proper scale' with the model and they always looked too fat.
5. I also painted all the balcony railings to indicate tinting and wood hand railings on all as well.
I 'cut and pasted' the other tips I had from prior threads:
It took some painstaking effort to mix the paints to get the right look for the decks. Use the QM2 and Cunard brochures for some good pictures of her for paint colors. I bought Tamiya spray Hull Red for the bottom. I did sand it down first with a very very fine sand paper. Makes the paint stick better. Looks wonderful.
Also one thing that helps a lot: buy some sheet styrene .2mm thick at a local hobby store and spray paint it gloss black, cut it down to size and glue to the backside of the upper and lower balcony sections for a more realistic (not see-thru) look.
For the balcony decks what I did was take some PACTRA Trim Model Tape (check out what it looks like here http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=2119 ) (with a better visualization of the tape widths here http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=2196 ) which comes on a roll, with about 6 different widths-sizes on the same roll. I took white trim tape and spray painted the whole roll laid flat out out a board, a tan-brown color. Once dry, I cut the 3/8" width (and the next size up on the roll, both which are perfect fits) down to sizes that would fit that balconies width. Measure the widths of the most common balcony sizes and cut out 20-30 at a time and stick it to the flooring of that balcony. It took less than 24 hours to do both sides of all the upper balconies and the results are no less than professional looking.
Use the 1/32" width trim tape painted the same color as the hand railing around the upper deck houses.
Back-tape ALL other open superstructure windows with strong scotch tape from the inside of the hull area and back-paint it gloss or flat black. Again makes for a more realistic (not see-thru) look.
HOPE THIS HELPS!!!
[ 12-30-2007: Message edited by: dmwnc1 ]
quote:Originally posted by Cunard Fan:dmwnc1 do you have pictures of your model?
I wish I did, I dont even have a good enough camera either that would show the detail well enough. The model is still in NC and I live in WV, however I am going back down there in February and pick it up. If the topic resurfaces maybe I can get some pics of it online. By that time maybe Colin will have his project kit half done? Its crazy that I spent that much time and devotion into building a model that when completed has been out of my posession for 2 1/2 years! Cant wait to see it again!
More pictures in the photo gallery Colin's QM2 model
Thanks for the helpful advice I got from a number of people.
[ 05-17-2010: Message edited by: Colin ]
Indeed it is a job well done!!! It is a very beautiful model. Mine is still in NC and I have seen it in over 4 years since I left it down there.
CONGRATULATIONS on your accomplishment!
Michael
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